Bodega Carmelo Patti, Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina

HE SAYS: Our second visit in Luján de Cuyo was at Bodega Carmelo Patti, another boutique winery. Carmelo comes from the old school of wine making and clearly enjoys what he is doing. He’s very warm and friendly and a gracious host. He doesn’t speak much English – and we didn’t speak much Spanish – but we managed to understand most of what he was saying because of the context.  (SHE INTERJECTS: he used a little Italian to make it easier on me.)

Carmelo basically runs a one-man operation, doing most of the work himself and hiring help at harvest season and when it’s time to bottle the wine.  So he oversees the vineyards, winemaking, bottling and even acts as tour guide. He showed us his cement fermentation tanks and barrel and bottle storage areas and and gave us a terrific barrel sample.
And how many red wine specialists do you know who also make a fine sparkling wine from pinot noir and chardonnay in the method champenoise, but we didn’t get to sample that. The tasting was free and it was definitely worth a visit.

SHE SAYS: What a doll.  If you are in Mendoza area, you absolutely MUST visit Carmello Patti.  Charming, funny and very, very gracious.  He acts as if he’s known you his entire life.  He has Spanish & Italian heritage and all the gracious qualities of both cultures live in Carmello.

Every fantasy you’ve ever had about touring an old, classic wine-making facility will come true here.  Walking down dark narrow hallways, sounds of your footsteps on cement walkways in those hallways, colors of cabernet, putty, beiges, golds, wood accents, the sounds of the master winemaker talking to you in another language, the smell of the oak barrels, a little taste from the barrel - if this is a dream do NOT wake me up – repeat – do NOT wake me up.

2003 Carmelo Patti Cabernet Sauvignon –
HE SAYS: This wine is just being released after about four years of aging. It has a big nose and medium body, with a bit of acid and tannin. He recommended drinking it by 2013. 14+
SHE SAYS:

2004 Carmelo Patti Malbec –
HE SAYS: A big and fruity Malbec that was aged 40% in French oak and 60% in concrete. It has medium high tannin, so it needs some age to soften. But once again, Carmelo said to drink it by 2013. Very good. 15
SHE SAYS:  Aging in concrete – you must see this.  You must.

2002 Carmelo Patti Gran Assemblage – Carmelo makes this wine only in years where the quality of the grapes merit it. So he’s produced an ’02, ’03, ’04 and ’08 recently. Carmelo wrote that it was 47% Cab, 24% Malbec, 19% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc. Well, that comes out to just 98%, and frankly my Spanish was too basic to inquire about the missing 2%. Regardless, what’s in the bottle is terrific. The Gran Assemblage is a BIG and bold wine. Berry and cherry flavors predominate. Very complex with medium high tannins and a decent kick of acid still. It ages one year in oak and 4 years in the bottle, and he says once again to drink by 2013. 16

Achaval-Ferrer, a boutique winery in Lujan de Cuyo, Argentina

HE SAYS:  We made our first stop in Luján de Cuyo at Achaval-Ferrer, a boutique winery that has

View of the Andes Mountains at Achaval-Ferrer

garnered much acclaim. Argentinians Santiago Achával Becu and Manuel Ferrer Minetti have teamed up with Italian winemaker Robert Cipresso. They strive to craft wines of the highest quality that show off the grapes and terroir of the region. They ferment their wine in giant cement tanks and then age in oak barrels. I highly recommend visiting them if you go to Mendoza as their tour was one of the most informative I’ve ever had and their wines are truly wonderful. The tasting is free with the tour.

Achaval-Ferrer Tasting Line-up.

2008 Achaval Ferrer Quimera (Barrel sample)

–  HE SAYS:A blend of Malbec, Cab, Merlot, Cab Franc and Petit Verdot. The color was a quite pretty purple, but the tannin and oak in the wine mask the fruit right now. The ’08 vintage was marked with lots of rain in February, then nice weather through harvest in March and early April, so it will be interesting to see how the wine develops.  Our guide mentioned the Quimera’s can be stored for up to 15 years.
SHE SAYS:  This is a young and happy wine – pucker up, baby! 

2006 Achaval Ferrer Quimera – HE SAYS:  This blend has very good fruit flavors and medium tannins. The Quimera blend changes each year, depending on the quality of the individual varietals. The winery said it could age for up to 15 years because of it’s solid structure. 15+
SHE SAYS:  Strong, friendly and warm – and if you’re still strong, friendly and warm in 15 years, we’ll talk.

2008 Achaval Ferrer Finca Mirador Malbec (Barrel sample) – HE SAYS:  Achaval Ferrer has three vineyards in Mendoza and thus makes three single vineyard wines to show off the terroir of each one. Mirador is the lowest of the three at 2,400 feet elevation. It lies along the West bank of the Tunuyan River in the Medrano region and has stony clay soil. This wine had only been in the barrel 6 months, and has another year to go. It is 100% Malbec and had an amazing deep purple color and violet nose. The wine was soft and approachable – very delicious. 15+
SHE SAYS:  Simple & friendly.

2008 Achaval Ferrer Finca Altamira Malbec (Barrel sample) – HE SAYS:  Altamira is the highest of the three vineyards at 3,400 feet elevation. It’s from a vineyard in the La Consulta region of the Uco Valley, which is maybe 75 miles south of the bodega. The warm days and cool nights of the Uco Valley help the grapes develop thicker skins, which increases the aromas, body and tannins. This barrel sample also had been aging only 6 months and had another year to go. Also 100% Malbec, it was nice and smooth, with a touch of lemony acid to it. “Sexy and sensual” is how they appropriately describe it. 16+
SHE SAYS:  You better be lookin’ at me when you say “sexy and sensual” big guy.  This one is yummy, if a little tight.

2006 Achaval Ferrer Dolce – HE SAYS:   This dessert wine is a Malbec that they harvest and then they let the grapes dry out to concentrate the sugars in raisin form. It was soft and very sensual, but also very intense. Just 16% alcohol, and not too sweet. All seven of us in the tasting room really loved this wine, which can age for 15 years. A truly unique and memorable wine. Unfortunately this wine is only available from the winery for about $40 for 500 ml, so it’s going to be difficult to track down. 17
SHE SAYS:  Mmmmmm… you scrumptious thing, you.  We brought home 2 bottles and if you want a sip, well, I have a long list of house chores for you and when you’re finished, you can have a glass of Dolce.
Visit online at www.achaval-ferrer.com

Vines of Mendoza – Our Sunday Afternoon Tasting

Vines of Mendoza was our first stop for tasting in Mendoza Wine Country.  Here are some comments from 7 wines we tasted at the Vines of Mendoza.  Many thanks to Pablo who helped arrange some appointments at wineries in Mendoza while we were there.

2005 Mairena Bonarda – HE SAYS:  This was my first sampling of Bonarda, which is abundantly grown in Argentina. In the past, it was often used to add color in blends of syrah or for inexpensive wines, but with better techniques many winemakers are realizing the potential of this grape. This wine reveals many cranberry flavors. It’s a bit dry and a tad bitter because of the tannins, but it has a good body. 14+
SHE SAYS:  I’m so happy to meet a new grape!  You are yummy, and you just meet so few new grapes these days.

2005 Cinco Tierras Malbec Clasico – HE SAYS:  The Banfi family of wineries owns Cinco Tierras and the Italian influence is present in this Malbec. It is a very smoky wine from the higher toast they use on their barrels. The wine is dry, without big flavors. Not flashy, but well made. 13+
SHE SAYS:  Smokey wines are soooo sexy.

2002 Gentile Collins Gran Syrah – HE SAYS:  I’m sorry to say, this was the worst syrah I’ve ever tasted. It didn’t even taste like a syrah. It has a port-like smell, but while it’s not sweet, it just had a really odd flavor. I don’t know if that style is intentional or because syrah doesn’t grow well in Argentina, but all I could say was “Ugghh!” 10
SHE SAYS:  Lighten up – it’s fine.

2002 Hacienda del Plata Cabernet Sauvignon – HE SAYS:  This wine had nice body, berry flavors and a medium amount of acid. It was pretty evenly split between stainless steel, French Oak and American oak. Perfectly drinkable, but not wow. 14
SHE SAYS: Don’t bother me.  I’m busy eating this CHEESE!  (Vines of Mendoza will serve you extraordinary and memorable cheeses with your wine.)

2005 Pulenta Estate Merlot – HE SAYS:  This Merlot was very, very good. It’s well balanced and has a long finish. The wine was fermemented in oak vats and aged in small barrels and was one of the best Merlots I tasted all trip. 15+
SHE SAYS:  Oh God, they gave me Proscuitto, too.  The wine is all yours, honey.

2006 Bressia Monteagrelo Malbec – HE SAYS:  This wine was made by Walter Bressia, who has struck out on his own after making Argentine wines for about 30 years, including for Bodega Vistalba and Viniterra. His winemaking skills are evident in this lovely Malbec, which is a blend from five vineyards and was aged in French oak. It has a great color, good body, nice balance and has a nice soft, smooth finish. The tannins are low, so you’d want to drink it soon. 15+
SHE SAYS:  There’s wild boar on my plate, too.  You stay busy with that wine.  They have given me food from the gods.

2004 Gran Estirpe Malbec (by Clos de Chacras) – HE SAYS: The grapes for this Malbec come from 100-year-old vines in Lunlunta (Maipú) in the Luján de Cuyo area. It has brilliant purple color and a full mouth feel, soft and warm like a warm brie. This Malbec has merlot and cabernet and was one of the best malbecs I tasted. They only produced 6,100 bottles and it has won a few awards, so it is well worth seeking out. The wine is produced by Clos de Chacras, a boutique bodega who we visited in Luján de Cuyo. Really delicious. 16+
SHE SAYS:  I’m finished eating.  Oooooh – this is a happy wine.  Take me to the people who made this wine.

Wine Tasting in Argentina – The things you’ll want to know before you go.

HE and SHE both say: Wine tasting in Argentina is very different than here in California.  In Napa/Sonoma, Lake County, Santa Barbara or Temecula you can belly up to the bar and visit 8 – 10 different wineries in one day – depending on the strength of your liver, the ease of the traffic and the accuracy of your maps.   In Mendoza, at the smaller bodegas (wineries) each Tasting & Tour is an event and a special occasion between you and the beautiful staff who will become your new friends.    Your new mantra?  Reservations, Reservations and Reservations.  Here are a few things to know before you go tasting in Mendoza, Argentina.

WHAT IS THE BEST TIME OF YEAR TO VISIT?: This is a personal decision, of course.  We chose late October as it is their spring, it is not peak season and we wanted the freedom to be able to ask a lot of questions (and take an annoying number of pictures.)   We have chosen wisely.  Often we were the only people on the tour and most of the experiences were very unique and tailored just to us.   Mid November things begin to get busier with “high season” considered to be January through April.  Harvest season happens during those months and from what we heard, that can be another great time to visit.  More on harvest season later.

Welcome to Vines of Mendoza Tasting Room

WHERE DO I BEGIN? If you are going to Mendoza to taste wine, your first stop as you plan your trip will be Vines of Mendoza.
www.vinesofmendoza.com We also suggest you make Vines of Mendoza Tasting Room (their beautiful tasting room in the heart of the city of Mendoza) your very first stop when you arrive.  They were open on a Sunday and their staff are some of the most elegant and knowledgeable people you’ll ever meet.  They will give you the overall perspective of Mendoza and her wine regions and you will be more prepared to have a great time.  Start here for the overview of the regions.   Enjoy a flight while you are at Vines of Mendoza, and your trip will have a perfect start.  You can even begin with a “Sensory Lesson”  before your first tasting so your senses are awakened and appreciative.   Most wine tastings at Mendoza wineries are a Tasting & Tour and require a reservation.   You may want to choose your bodegas (wineries) or fincas (estates) in advance of your flight to Argentina.  If so, you can still begin at www.vinesofmendoza.com and email them with any questions.  They are so happy to hear from you and happy to assist you.

The professionals at Vines of Mendoza Tasting Room happily share their extensive knowledge.

RESERVATIONS, PLEASE:

Once the staff at Vines of Mendoza assists you in choosing your top wineries for your tasting pleasure, if you like, they can call and make  reservations for you.  There is no charge for this service.  If you’re feeling plucky with your Spanish, you can make the reservations yourself, but Vines of Mendoza knows all of the wineries and the subtleties of each situation, so if this is your first trip, why not let them make the reservations for you?   Tours have a time schedule in Mendoza so you will always want to call in advance for your Tour & Tasting.  Even if the winery descriptions state that you can visit the winery without a reservation, always call first, just to be sure.

HOW WILL I GET TO THE WINERIES? Two best options – Pre-organized Local Tours or a private Remise (driver)  The organized local tours seem to choose the wineries and set the itinerary for you.  If you like to choose your own wineries, you’ll want your own Remise.  Depending on the Remise your costs may be a little less than the organized tours.   You should always book your Remise through your hotel or lodge as they will book you with someone they know is reliable and knowledgeable.   Always tip generously and you will begin to find friends for life.  If you’re the hearty, adventuring type, you can rent a car, find a map and figure it out on your own – but I suggest this method only if you have a lot of extra time as you will spend quite a bit of time just finding your way around.  The wine country is rural and roads are not as clearly marked as the wine country in North America.

If you’d like to follow along with a map while your driver makes his way through the wine country, we suggest the Official Wine Maps of Argentina Graphically, it is a work of art – just beautiful.  The map is actually 3 maps/directories and covers 6 different regions and dozens of bodegas.  It does not contain all of the wineries, but no worries… between Vines of Mendoza and this map, you’ll be a pro in no time.  We wrote in the missing wineries with a pen – and so can you.

IT’S AN EVENT: In Mendoza region, each tasting is a Tour & Tasting and it is an event.  The wineries are expecting you as a true guest and they will treat you with a great deal of love.  Your guide will invite you into the heart of their winery and walk you through the intimate details of their own winemaking process.  You’ll sit with either a winemaker or the designated knowledgeable professional of the day for your tasting  and you will be transported to a little heaven.  I promise.   You’ll spend more than an hour at each winery and depending on your wine itinerary, you will have a bit of drive time between each location.  Three wineries a day is a perfect schedule.  You can try for four wineries in a day if the wineries are very close to each other, but even the ones that appear right next to each other on the map, can take a 30-40 minute drive.  Only silly people try to do four wineries in one day and they don’t try it twice.  (Yes, we would be those silly people.)

HOTELS: Another entirely personal decision.  We’ve stayed in enough 4 & 5 star hotels in our travels – each one begins to feel just like another no matter which country you’re in.  So this time, we chose something that would feel more culturally authentic.  We chose to stay in the town of Chacras (20 minute taxi ride / 30 minute bumpy bus ride) from Mendoza.  There are many small lodges in the smaller towns that are made just for you to feel the real Argentina.  Authentic Argentine building traditions, small number of rooms (8 – 12 rooms), staff that will spoil you rotten, and outdoor pizza ovens and grills.  When dinner time arrives and you smell the grill & oven fired up, you’ll want to stay there forever.  Take a peek:  http://www.postalesdelplata.com/chacras.htm

So, those are the basics.  Pack your flexibility, your patience, your curiosity and a deep appreciation for the opportunity to experience the differences of your Southern Cousins.  A note to remember – You’re in a completely different hemisphere, so there are bound to be things that happen that will confuse you.  The people of Mendoza and the surrounding towns are lovely and are more than willing to help you.  Have your cell phone turned on for international use – or rent a local cell phone from your hotel for the duration of your trip as you may need to contact your hotel while you are out.   Be sure your hotel has someway to reach you while you are out (your itinerary, a copy of your Remise’s business card or your cell phone number) in case there are changes to your “vinetinerary” for the next day.

Argentine wines…

Well, it’s true, we have a whole host of Argentine wines we’ll be writing about in just a few days.
Barry tasted over 30 wines at the wineries in Mendoza, Argentina and at Vines of Mendoza.
If you’re considering a trip to Argentina to taste what they have to offer, we highly recommend starting your trip at http://www.vinesofmendoza.com .  Since you’ll be traveling to a completely different continent and a different hemisphere, we suggest you just take all of the guidance that Vines of Mendoza has to offer and you’ll do just fine.