Andeluna Vineyard and Winery – Uco Valley, Mendoza, Argentina

He Said "Que bella!" She Said, "Que freddo!" The Vineyards at Andeluna Cellars

 

HE SAYS:  On the second day of our wine travels in Mendoza, we drove down to the Uco Valley. It was about a one hour drive from our lodge, part of it over some rolling hills.
The Uco Valley is higher elevation – the snow-capped Andes Mountains tower right there to the West. It is the highest altitude of the growing regions in Mendoza, and the area is more undeveloped so that seems to be where most of the new vineyard and winery expansion is occurring. Andeluna (meaning Andes moon) is a beautiful new winery, built by H. Ward Lay, of the Lay potato chip family. It took about five years to build this winery, but they did a fantastic job creating a contemporary version of an old Argentina ranch (estancia).

Their winemaker, Silvio Alberto, was named “outstanding young winemaker of the year,” and he crafts the wines, and gets input from famed consulting enologist Michel Rolland.

The lovely Gisela

Andeluna does charge for touring and tasting, but we got a great private tour from Gisela, a very personable young lady. Outside in the vineyard she explained how they manage the vines to have a specific number of spurs and clusters, and then how they go through and thin the clusters by 60-70% to concentrate the flavors in the grapes that do remain. I had the giant tasting room all to myself, as my wife thought 10:30 in the morning is too early to drink wine. Nonsense!
SHE SAYS: Shall we be accurate?  I was in the tasting room, too.  You were just in a world of your own and forgot I was there. And pretty cute you were, too.

2007 Andeluna Cellars Winemaker’s Selection Torrontés
HE SAYS: This was my first chance in Argentina to taste a Torrontés, which is the only wine considered to be 100% Argentinian. I really enjoyed this wine, which reminds me of a cross between a viognier and sauvignon blanc. The Andeluna Torrontés had nice fragrant nose and yet was very crisp and clean with grapefruit and tropical fruit flavors. This wine, with grapes from the Tupungato area, didn’t see any oak, and was very nicely balanced – a terrific food wine. 15  SHE SAYS: 10:30 in the morning  is too early to drink wine.

He Said "Wine. She Said "Coffee."

 

2005 Andeluna Cellars Reserve Chardonnay –
HE SAYS:  Half of the wine was aged for a year in American and French oak, while the rest stayed in stainless steel. This chardonnay had a nice, clear golden color and honeysuckle nose. It was nice and clean with a touch of oak amongst the citrus and vanilla flavors. It still had enough acid to go with food. Very tasty. 15+   SHE SAYS: Thx for the coffee.

2005 Andeluna Cellars Reserve Merlot –

She Said, "You're tasting how many wines?"

HE SAYS: This was a very nice Merlot, with a deep and dark rose nose. It was soft, with dark berry and touches of cinnamon and cocoa flavors. It had a good body and nice balance, with the fruit emerging from the medium tannins. It was aged for a year in French (80%) and American (20%) oak, then aged six more months in the bottle. I suggest aging it another 3-5 years. 15
SHE SAYS: 10:45 in the morning  is still too early for wine.

2005 Andeluna Cellars Reserve Malbec–
HE SAYS: Great purple color on this Malbec. It was dryer than the Merlot, with earthy berry and cherry flavors. Nice finish, but medium high tannins masked the fruit somewhat. 15
SHE SAYS: I love you, Malbec – but even 11:00 in the morning is too early.

2004 Andeluna Cellars Reserve Cabernet –
HE SAYS: This is a big wine, but the tannins were so strong that much of the fruit was masked. There were chocolate essences to it, but it definitely needs more bottle time to soften the tannins and let the flavors emerge. Hard to figure out at the moment. 14+
SHE SAYS: Ok, Ok, I’ll try it.  :-*/  !*!   I was right.  It’s just too early.

2003 Andeluna Cellars Grand Reserve Pasionada –
HE SAYS: A terrific Bordeaux-style blend, comprised of 35% Merlot, 35% Cab; 20% Malbec and 10% Cab Franc. (The proportions change each year, depending on the quality of the grape. In contrast, the ’04 is 49% Malbec, 26% Merlot, 17% Cab and 8% Cab Franc.) The wine was aged in new French (85%) and American (15%) oak for 18 months, and then aged for 8 more months in the bottle. This was a truly terrific and elegant wine, with great full flavors of cherry and berry and a touch of cocoa. The tannins were medium, so it could sit for a bit. By far, it was the best of the red wines by Andeluna and is worth seeking out. 16+
SHE SAYS: I believe you.

Clos de Chacras Winery, Chacras de Coria, Lujan de Cuyo, Argentina

Clos de Chacras – Vineyard and Winery

Clos de Chacras Gran-Estirpe Malbec

SHE SAYS: Want to feel really good?  Like you are in love?   Then click the link right here and go to the Clos de Chacras website.  Listen to the music while you read what we’ve written about this Bodega.
HE SAYS: This is another boutique winery in the city of Chacras de Coria in the Luján de Cuyo area.   Bautista Gargantini was one of the fathers of the Argentine wine industry in Mendoza.  By 1911, their winery ranked as one of the world’s leading producers. In 1921 they opened a facility in Chacras de Coria, but it was later sold.   Then in 1987, Bautista’s granddaughter Silvia Gargantini, and her husband, Alejandro Genoud, purchased it.  Some remodeling and updating was required, but beyond that the approval process took an astounding 17 years and they just reopened in 2003.   Well, it was well worth the wait.

Clos de Chacras - The gate to the barrel rooms.

SHE SAYS: It’s not very often that someone has the patience to wait for 17 years to create  something they love, but here you will see and feel the value of those 17 years.  The preservation of their history and the permanence of their long-term choices for the life of their winery are seen and felt in every corner.

Clos de Chacras tour. The cement fermentation tanks.

HE SAYS: We were lucky again and received a private tour of their old wine-making facility and saw some of the new improvements. Their old cement fermentation tanks are located underground, and the original gate that is reflected on their bottles is still there in the bottle storage area.

Clos de Chacras

They have long-term contracts to purchase grapes from the nearby Maipú area and the La Consulta and La Carrodilla areas in the Uco Valley. They make two lines – Cavas de Crianza, with Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet varietals, plus a blend of the three – and Gran Estirpe, their premium Malbec wine. We paid about about $10 US each for the tour and tasting, which included cheese and crackers.

SHE SAYS: The 2004 Gran Estirpe is why we are here.  When we tasted the Gran Estirpe at Vines of Mendoza, we knew we had to visit Clos de Chacras.  Seek the Gran Estirpe.  

2006 Cavas de Crianza Malbec –
HE SAYS: Gorgeously purple colored Malbec from the Maipú region, with fruity and soft flavors. It shows great balance and is very smooth and has a wonderful mouth feel. This sold for about $30 Argentine pesos, or less than about $10 U.S. This is a great wine and a tremendous value. 15+

SHE SAYS: This is our forth winery of the day.  I can tell you this one is beautiful, but I have no more words than that.

2005 Cavas de Crianza Cabernet –
HE SAYS: This also comes from Maipú and was deep and dark, with an earthy component to it. It is very good and very complex. It can age for about 5 or 6 years they think. Also a great value at around $10. 15
SHE SAYS: This one makes me cry.  In a good way.

2005 Cavas de Crianza Blend –
HE SAYS: A blend of 40% Malbec and 30% each of Cab and Merlot. It was nice, had medium tannins, but was not as distinguished as the Cab or Malbec. As I recall, the blend costs just a bit more. 14
SHE SAYS: I am tired. I will trust you on this one.

2004 Gran Estirpe Malbec –
HE SAYS: We tasted this through the Vines of Mendoza. The grapes for this Malbec come from 100-year-old vines in Lunlunta (Maipú) in the Luján de Cuyo area. It has brilliant purple color and a full mouth feel, soft and warm like a warm brie. This Malbec has merlot and cabernet and was one of the best malbecs I tasted. They only produced 6,100 bottles and it has won a few awards, so it is well worth seeking out. Really delicious. 16+
SHE SAYS: Seek the Gran Estirpe.  Since they make only 6,000 bottles, this will not be a part of your scheduled tasting.  Just buy a bottle and take it home with you.  You will have no regrets.

The Gran Estirpe aging in bottles.

Wine Tasting in Argentina – The things you’ll want to know before you go.

HE and SHE both say: Wine tasting in Argentina is very different than here in California.  In Napa/Sonoma, Lake County, Santa Barbara or Temecula you can belly up to the bar and visit 8 – 10 different wineries in one day – depending on the strength of your liver, the ease of the traffic and the accuracy of your maps.   In Mendoza, at the smaller bodegas (wineries) each Tasting & Tour is an event and a special occasion between you and the beautiful staff who will become your new friends.    Your new mantra?  Reservations, Reservations and Reservations.  Here are a few things to know before you go tasting in Mendoza, Argentina.

WHAT IS THE BEST TIME OF YEAR TO VISIT?: This is a personal decision, of course.  We chose late October as it is their spring, it is not peak season and we wanted the freedom to be able to ask a lot of questions (and take an annoying number of pictures.)   We have chosen wisely.  Often we were the only people on the tour and most of the experiences were very unique and tailored just to us.   Mid November things begin to get busier with “high season” considered to be January through April.  Harvest season happens during those months and from what we heard, that can be another great time to visit.  More on harvest season later.

Welcome to Vines of Mendoza Tasting Room

WHERE DO I BEGIN? If you are going to Mendoza to taste wine, your first stop as you plan your trip will be Vines of Mendoza.
www.vinesofmendoza.com We also suggest you make Vines of Mendoza Tasting Room (their beautiful tasting room in the heart of the city of Mendoza) your very first stop when you arrive.  They were open on a Sunday and their staff are some of the most elegant and knowledgeable people you’ll ever meet.  They will give you the overall perspective of Mendoza and her wine regions and you will be more prepared to have a great time.  Start here for the overview of the regions.   Enjoy a flight while you are at Vines of Mendoza, and your trip will have a perfect start.  You can even begin with a “Sensory Lesson”  before your first tasting so your senses are awakened and appreciative.   Most wine tastings at Mendoza wineries are a Tasting & Tour and require a reservation.   You may want to choose your bodegas (wineries) or fincas (estates) in advance of your flight to Argentina.  If so, you can still begin at www.vinesofmendoza.com and email them with any questions.  They are so happy to hear from you and happy to assist you.

The professionals at Vines of Mendoza Tasting Room happily share their extensive knowledge.

RESERVATIONS, PLEASE:

Once the staff at Vines of Mendoza assists you in choosing your top wineries for your tasting pleasure, if you like, they can call and make  reservations for you.  There is no charge for this service.  If you’re feeling plucky with your Spanish, you can make the reservations yourself, but Vines of Mendoza knows all of the wineries and the subtleties of each situation, so if this is your first trip, why not let them make the reservations for you?   Tours have a time schedule in Mendoza so you will always want to call in advance for your Tour & Tasting.  Even if the winery descriptions state that you can visit the winery without a reservation, always call first, just to be sure.

HOW WILL I GET TO THE WINERIES? Two best options – Pre-organized Local Tours or a private Remise (driver)  The organized local tours seem to choose the wineries and set the itinerary for you.  If you like to choose your own wineries, you’ll want your own Remise.  Depending on the Remise your costs may be a little less than the organized tours.   You should always book your Remise through your hotel or lodge as they will book you with someone they know is reliable and knowledgeable.   Always tip generously and you will begin to find friends for life.  If you’re the hearty, adventuring type, you can rent a car, find a map and figure it out on your own – but I suggest this method only if you have a lot of extra time as you will spend quite a bit of time just finding your way around.  The wine country is rural and roads are not as clearly marked as the wine country in North America.

If you’d like to follow along with a map while your driver makes his way through the wine country, we suggest the Official Wine Maps of Argentina Graphically, it is a work of art – just beautiful.  The map is actually 3 maps/directories and covers 6 different regions and dozens of bodegas.  It does not contain all of the wineries, but no worries… between Vines of Mendoza and this map, you’ll be a pro in no time.  We wrote in the missing wineries with a pen – and so can you.

IT’S AN EVENT: In Mendoza region, each tasting is a Tour & Tasting and it is an event.  The wineries are expecting you as a true guest and they will treat you with a great deal of love.  Your guide will invite you into the heart of their winery and walk you through the intimate details of their own winemaking process.  You’ll sit with either a winemaker or the designated knowledgeable professional of the day for your tasting  and you will be transported to a little heaven.  I promise.   You’ll spend more than an hour at each winery and depending on your wine itinerary, you will have a bit of drive time between each location.  Three wineries a day is a perfect schedule.  You can try for four wineries in a day if the wineries are very close to each other, but even the ones that appear right next to each other on the map, can take a 30-40 minute drive.  Only silly people try to do four wineries in one day and they don’t try it twice.  (Yes, we would be those silly people.)

HOTELS: Another entirely personal decision.  We’ve stayed in enough 4 & 5 star hotels in our travels – each one begins to feel just like another no matter which country you’re in.  So this time, we chose something that would feel more culturally authentic.  We chose to stay in the town of Chacras (20 minute taxi ride / 30 minute bumpy bus ride) from Mendoza.  There are many small lodges in the smaller towns that are made just for you to feel the real Argentina.  Authentic Argentine building traditions, small number of rooms (8 – 12 rooms), staff that will spoil you rotten, and outdoor pizza ovens and grills.  When dinner time arrives and you smell the grill & oven fired up, you’ll want to stay there forever.  Take a peek:  http://www.postalesdelplata.com/chacras.htm

So, those are the basics.  Pack your flexibility, your patience, your curiosity and a deep appreciation for the opportunity to experience the differences of your Southern Cousins.  A note to remember – You’re in a completely different hemisphere, so there are bound to be things that happen that will confuse you.  The people of Mendoza and the surrounding towns are lovely and are more than willing to help you.  Have your cell phone turned on for international use – or rent a local cell phone from your hotel for the duration of your trip as you may need to contact your hotel while you are out.   Be sure your hotel has someway to reach you while you are out (your itinerary, a copy of your Remise’s business card or your cell phone number) in case there are changes to your “vinetinerary” for the next day.

Argentine wines…

Well, it’s true, we have a whole host of Argentine wines we’ll be writing about in just a few days.
Barry tasted over 30 wines at the wineries in Mendoza, Argentina and at Vines of Mendoza.
If you’re considering a trip to Argentina to taste what they have to offer, we highly recommend starting your trip at http://www.vinesofmendoza.com .  Since you’ll be traveling to a completely different continent and a different hemisphere, we suggest you just take all of the guidance that Vines of Mendoza has to offer and you’ll do just fine.